Pitti Fragranze 2025: The Renewed Irisoir
10.23.2025
I met Sultan Pasha during Pitti Fragranze at the booth of Shekor, for whom he created the fragrance Ashar, which greatly impressed me. But I had already heard from colleagues that the perfumer, known for his Sultan Pasha Attars, had recently released a collection of alcohol-based perfumes under his own name, Sultan Pasha Perfumes, and I couldn't help but inquire about it.
I was especially curious about Irisoir. Regardless of the new theme announced by the organizers each year and the current trends, I always search for iris fragrances at Pitti Fragranze — as it happens, Florence smells of irises to me.
I feel as though (it could just be the power of self-persuasion) that in the evenings, a subtle scent of orris-scented leather wafts through the old streets of central Florence that lead to the river.
Whether the heraldic lily on the city's coat of arms is actually an iris is debatable, but it is a fact that the dressed leather for which Florence was historically famous was scented with compositions including iris root. I am enchanted by this delicate fragrant veil that settles over the Arno embankment in the evenings; it is etched in my memory, so whatever my tasks at the Florentine exhibition are, I never miss a new release with a note of iris. And here, even the name of the perfume, a portmanteau of Iris and Soir (evening), sounded like a promise!
I have not yet had the chance to try Sultan Pasha's eponymous attar, created in 2016, but I know that transforming an oil-based perfume into an alcohol-based format is no simple task: a different carrier medium implies different nuances in its development.
That's why it took several years to develop the Sultan Pasha Perfumes line, in which three of the four fragrances revisit their counterparts in the attar collection. The result is mesmerizing: the depth of the composition and the interplay of its nuances are marvelous! This is a perfect example of a creation in the style of the best of the classical French school of perfumery, of which Sultan Pasha is a great admirer — he is well known among collectors of vintage perfumery as the owner of a superb collection.
The legendary iris fragrances of the first half of the 20th century are what inspired the creation of Irisoir. Many compared the eponymous attar to vintage versions of L’Heure Bleue, but you wouldn't for a second think of Irisoir as a mere stylization — it is a completely independent and rather modern creation. Irisoir's individuality lies in its mood, which, although lyrical, has none of the tinge of sadness inherent in the great iris perfumes of the past. Irisoir is sublime, but not in a ghostly, mystical way; rather, it is sensual, emphasizing the warm overtones in the orris accord.
The warmth and bright sensuality of Irisoir result from combining velvety, powdery orris with the almond note of heliotrope, the ripe fruitiness of peach, and sweet-spicy coriander. At the same time, the fragrance features a second melody — a cool accord of lilac, violet leaf, and sandalwood.
Irisoir's development is slow, and where classic iris fragrances darken towards the base, Irisoir seems to gather light, just as the sky at dusk can remain orange long after sunset. This effect is achieved by avoiding overtly animalic notes and the oakmoss, which were typical of fragrances of the past — instead, a soft accord of white amber, vetiver, and cedar with a cozy lactonic touch is used
What also struck me when I first experienced Irisoir, besides its radiant iris beauty, was how organically it fits, for me, into the image of a sunset over the bridges of the Arno River. The fact is, Irisoir has the same distinct leathery quality as the scent of a Florentine twilight. This is not a modern, isobutylquinoline leather, but a completely vintage one in the style of old Peau d'Espagne fragrances, which contained no actual animal hides, but rather a mixture of a recognizable orris-almond scent and amber.
I love the way Irisoir literally melts into the skin — not like a transparent mist, but like an aromatic oil, as if hinting at its origins as an attar. The perfume borrows its intimate, close-to-the-skin presence and excellent longevity from its attar form. The result is rich, almost defiantly luxurious, yet not overwhelming to those around you. However, given the concentration, it is best not to over-apply.
I would also like to note the fragrance's resilience to changes in season and climate — I was convinced of this after bringing Irisoir home with me to Prague. Here, in the midst of a cold autumn, it unfolds with the same beauty and power as it did in the much warmer climate of Italy at the end of a southern summer.
I won't claim that Irisoir will captivate everyone who tries it — indeed, niche brands typically cater to a specific audience — but I would recommend this fragrance to connoisseurs of the multifaceted beauty of iris, to vintage lovers, and to perfume erudites. And also, of course, to those for whom Florentine evenings smell of history.